Why is it Difficult to Sell Handcrafted Jewelry?

Talented jewelers and artisan jewelers from all over the world develop and produce exquisite pieces of handmade jewelry. While many designers come up with completely original creations, others are heavily affected by the cultural traditions and history of their country or region.

Merely Calisto, a renowned expert in the field of jewelry, collaborates closely with hundreds of master artisan designers in her own Peru. She is in charge of the area for Novica.com, an international arts organization that promotes the work of thousands of artists throughout the world by publishing biographies and collections of their work on the web.

Calisto, a Peruvian jeweler, talks about the art of jewelry making and the history, techniques, and materials of Peruvian jewelry in the interview that follows. Calisto discusses how she became an expert in the jewelry industry, the criteria she uses to evaluate new designers and collections, and the designers and brands she recommends.

CG: Why does Novica focus on handmade pieces as opposed to machine-made pieces? What are the benefits of forgecraft jewelry over factory-made pieces?

It's harder to make jewelry by hand than it is to use a machine. One can sense the heart and soul of the creator. Handmade jewelry allows artists to express themselves, share more of who they are, and see their dreams come true without having to shell out thousands of dollars. Artists can demonstrate their individuality and their connection to their heritage using this medium, which requires little more than talent, a few inexpensive materials, and a few simple equipments. Machine-made jewelry, on the other hand, is more expensive because of the high costs of machinery, labor, and other factors, and it also lacks the creative spirit that defines handcrafted jewelry.

CG: Can you describe the common types of handmade jewelry a collector would find in modern-day Peru?

MC: Pre-Inca, Traditional, Colonial, and Modern are the most common categories of jewelry from Peru that collectors seek after. Our forebears worked hard, and with great determination, to develop a number of gold and silver mines, which have now brought us widespread fame. The most common application was in the making of high-quality, custom jewelry. We can learn a lot about our predecessors' worldviews by looking at the jewelry they wore and the symbols they used. Royal birds, cats, the Sun God, and other mythical figures are common motifs in Peruvian jewelry. The Land of the Sun is Peru.

Colonial jewelry from our family reveals what our forebears were doing when they adapted to a new culture, even though that culture was the product of the Conquest of the Americas. So, the jewelry of our Colonial ancestors fuses the individual skills of the past with the promise of a fresh beginning, with a focus on floral motifs rather than the animal motifs favored by earlier generations. The art of jewelry creation is flourishing in modern Peru, attracting young jewelers who favor contemporary pieces inspired by our heritage but characterized by more abstract forms and concepts. This opens up possibilities for the Peruvian artist to create work that draws from our culture but also introduces fresh perspectives.

CG: Can you give an example of the kind of intricate design work that can be found in Pre-Inca, Inca, and other types of Peruvian handcrafted jewelry?

Due to the Inca Empire's origins in the conquest of numerous Pre-Inca civilizations, there are many stylistic parallels between Pre-Inca and Inca jewelry. The beliefs and cosmology of the Inca are reflected in their jewelry. You can find symbols of monarchy, power, and loyalty in the form of cats, humans, and birds adorned with snakes and sun rays. Some of our Pre-Inca societies employed a spare yet visually appealing aesthetic to communicate their worldviews; examples of this may be seen throughout our art today, not only in jewelry. Colonial jewelry is a classic example of elegance. You can tell that a piece of jewelry was created with the Queen in mind if it has a Colonial jewel design or a Modern jewelry design that was inspired by colonial periods. Though we don't utilize diamonds or other precious stones, this design nevertheless feels like a jewel because of how it was executed. Authentic pieces of colonial jewelry or jewelry fashioned in the Inca style are true works of art.

CG: What types of precious metals and gemstones can be found in traditional Peruvian jewelry? The question is, how high-quality are these Peruvian components?

MC: What a wonderful inquiry! Have any idea why? Peru is the leading silver producer in the world, according to the Silver Institute, followed closely by Mexico. We produce more gold than anyone else in Latin America and are in the top five worldwide. When it comes to quality, we are among the very finest. When it comes to precious stones, we offer something truly unique: the Andean Opal. Although opal can be found in many places, Andean Opal can only be found in Peru. The Pre-Incas fashioned jewelry from this stone is called Crisocola. In addition to the aforementioned, Sodalite, Onyx, Obsidian, Jasper, Serpentine, and Angelite are also highly sought-after semiprecious stones.

CG: What do you look for in terms of design style, materials, and quality when contemplating representing new handcrafted jewelry artisans? How do you pick which ones to use?

MC: The message behind each design is the first thing I consider while deciding whether or not to buy it. Where would you find your clientele? When this item is worn, how does he or she look? Is it meant to transmit history, culture, and character to a market where consumers actively seek novelty? Whether the style is contemporary or classic, I try to find a nod to our history. Initially, I'm interested in it if it captures the essence of Peru in any manner. It makes me happy to see Peruvian resources used, especially our silver, gold, and indigenous stones. Then, of course, it needs to be well-made and polished to perfection.

CG: Who are some of your favorite jewelry designers who work in the handmade genre? Tell me why they're your favorites by describing some of the qualities they possess.

It's no secret that Ilaria is one of my favorite songs, and MC will be the first to admit it. She prefers the colonial approach we described, and she creates items with the consumer in mind rather than any particular aesthetic. To see what I mean, check out her offerings at Novica.

Another of my favorite designers is Patricia Jara, whose work is almost usually in a contemporary style that draws inspiration from Pre-Inca cultures. Claudia Laury fuses custom with her own straightforward method of expressing custom; she also employs only locally sourced materials, such as sterling silver. Juan Contreras is a master designer, and his Inca-inspired work, such as the "Veil of the Incas" collection, is especially beautiful. Jewelry by Claudia Lira is of exceptional quality and a great example of the ongoing innovation among Peruvian designers. Anna Lia and Adrian combine Art Deco sophistication with ethnic opulence, but they don't always employ indigenous stones. I'm honored to work with such talented creators as these and many others. Our Novica Handcrafted Jewelry section features each piece uniquely.

CG: What inspired you to work in the field of handcrafted jewelry? Are you a self-taught jeweler?

MC: I'd say I'm more of a theorist than a doer. Jewelry is a special favorite of mine. When I first started working in the jewelry industry, it was to promote Peruvian jewelry internationally. To that end, I went to a lot of different jewelry studios, both specialized and more widely known, to get a feel for the entire process. I also worked on deals related to the metals industry. I went to National Industries Society and Mining Society meetings with other professionals in the field.

Because I saw a need to educate new and tiny jewelers about the trade, I set about organizing attendance at technical courses and designing educational seminars. However, despite all the knowledge I gained, I never really applied it to my own artistic work. I have had a great time attending international jewelry symposiums and exhibiting at international jewelry fairs like Iberjoya in Madrid, both of which are sponsored by different international cooperation programs.

I was invited to serve as a judge for the Patronato de la Plata's annual Plata del Peru silver competition. Working with Novica for so long has allowed me to gain invaluable knowledge in a variety of fields. Meanwhile, the market has expanded rapidly, bringing Novica and me closer together. All across the world, people are experimenting with new jewelry materials and designs, so I try to stay up with the latest trends.

The Mining Institute is a great place to go if you want to learn more about the gems that may be found in your area. It has been fun for me to learn how to make jewelry so that I may be more actively connected with our artists. On occasion, I'll drop by a local jewelry wholesaler to check out the latest offerings and get an idea of current market values. To better aid artists and comprehend their financial requirements, I must keep abreast of all pricing changes. Professional life is intriguing and challenging.